Christmas in San Francisco

New fallen snow blanketed the countryside. ThePeople bustling down the street, dressed in their winter
sounds of passing cars along the road were muted ingarb. Odd combinations of scarf, heavy down jacket,
the still, peaceful air. Hills and valleys, in their blanket ofgloves - and shorts... sometimes even sandals. There
snow, rolled softly into the distance, bathed in thetends to be confusion here if it's really hot or cold. Or
mellow light of a nearly full moon. A woody smell ofboth at the same time, which, oddly enough, happens in
burning pine and warm hearths teased at my nostrilsSan Francisco. Dressing in December can be tricky-
as I turned up the lane toward the house, snowindeed, any month of the year - and "layers" is the
crunching beneath my boots.mantra of the well-dressed shopper or merry-maker.
The house shone with a warm hazy glow, gentleAnd there are people here that just seem to have an
sounds of laughter and Christmas carols hung sweetlyaversion to long pants.
in the air. A string of lights - red, green, blue, yellow -From the silly to the sublime, concerts and shows
bright and happy, wound around the big picturecelebrate the Christmas spirit...
window next to the front door of the house. In theFrom "A Christmas Carol" at the American
window stood a tall, handsome Spruce, freshly cutConservatory Theater. To "The Nutcracker Suite"
from the surrounding hills. Bright shiny ornaments,performed by the San Francisco Ballet. To Handel's
colorful lights, garland, and tinsel adorned every sturdy"Messiah", at the magnificent Grace Cathedral atop
branch. At the very top, a big star blazed brightly,Nob Hill. To the venerable dancing Christmas Trees
beckoning me into this warm, cozy house.and Sequined Santa of "Beach Blanket Babylon", the
A dog barked in the moonlit distance as I walked upunique cabaret-style show that is a San Francisco
the narrow path to the front door. I reached out mylandmark in its thirtieth year.
hand to turn the big brass doorknob...A walk down to Union Square with all the high-end
There was a squeal of brakes and the clatter ofretailers competing for the best window display... Eight
garbage cans, the men in their stained coverallsstories of neon Christmas wreaths - dozens of them -
hoisted the contents into the back of the garbageadorning Macys. Winter scenes at Tiffany's
truck. Then the roar of the diesel engine as theyreminiscent of my Christmas dream....Wegman Dogs -
moved up the rain-soaked street to continue their daily,dogs with human bodies - cook Christmas dinner, play
early-morning rounds...at snowball fights, and dream sweet dreams of
Once again, the world from outside my San FranciscoChristmas in the windows at Saks Fifth Avenue.
flat intruded abruptly into my dream-induced innerAt the corner of Post and Mason, two young women
reality. The crunching snow under my boots and thedisplay their musical talents with voice and harp, the
dusky smell of smoke in my nostrils was mysounds of Christmas music mixing gently with the
dream-like version of Christmases long gone...sound of car horns and busses...
I awoke to Christmastime in San Francisco...A passing cable car slowly climbing Nob Hill, brightly-lit
It was all a dream of course. The passage of thirty orreindeer on the roof cheerfully guiding its sluggish
forty years tends toward an idealized, Normanascent as the cableman skillfully rings out Christmas
Rockwell-like remembrance of my childhoodcarols with the bell...
Christmas. I'm sure that even then the early morningThe mix of humanity on the sidewalk, from wealthy
rounds of garbagemen jolted people out of languid,shoppers to homeless street people. Pan-handlers
happy dreams of Christmas and youth.offering their usual mix of "Street Sheets" for a dollar;
But as my drowsy brain awakens to reality, I recallguilt - "come on... it's Christmas" - as they challenge
fond memories of a more recent past, right here in theyour averted glance; and humor - "can you spare
City.two-thousand for lunch in Rome?" - and whoever
It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas in Sansmiles first gets the rest of the spiel...
Francisco...From Union Square, an aimless walk up Nob Hill among
Winter in San Francisco is the one time during the yearthe fine, old, brick apartment houses with their
that it is generally warmer in the City than in thewhite-gloved doorman attending the entrance, a tall
outlying areas...Christmas tree brightly lit in the lobby. On to the stately
Mark Twain once observed that the coldest winter heVictorians of Russian Hill, with their mix of lights and
ever spent was a summer day in San Francisco. Thegarland and trees decorating the individual flats...
summers are cool, and the winters are mild. TheAn eggnog and rum at a lively North Beach pub, or a
changing of the seasons are a bit more subtle here,delicious meal at one of the many fine Italian
but they are here...restaurants, or perhaps some jazz at Pearls, in the
The brilliant blue sky after a good winter storm - oneneighborhood made famous by the "beat" generation.
or two inches of rain - as the late autumn afternoonYes indeed, San Francisco is alive with sights and
sun casts dramatic shadows on the flats in thesounds and smells and stories...
neighborhood. The deep, sound-deadening fog ofAt Christmas, this city that has always been a little
winter that seems to come up from the groundquirky, a little colorful, and even a little strange, comes
instead of the summer variety that comes off thealive with the sights, sounds, smells, and stories of the
ocean. The light dusting of snow on the outlying hillsseason...
surrounding San Francisco... Mt. Diablo, Mt. Hamilton, Mt.San Francisco style;
Tamalpais...With a twist.....