Cooking is There No End to Pasta Mania

Item: On any given day, customers at Fresh Fieldsperiod.
grocery stores across the country havea choice of 35``Oriental and Mexican restaurants still head the list (in
to 40 varieties of fresh pasta, ranging in flavor fromnumbers of ethnicrestaurants), but Italian restaurants
squid ink to garlicparsley. If none of those is suitable,are increasing more rapidly,'' says Millie
special orders can be made from a list of a whoppingLemajich,director of information services for the
208 pasta varieties.Evanston group.
Item: The average American consumer ate 18.4Nationally, the ubiquitous Olive Garden chain, which
pounds of pasta in 1990, up from 12.9pounds in 1982started with two restaurants in
for help visit The National Restaurant Association1982 in Orlando, now has 432 and is averaging 50
estimates that by the year 2000we'll be eating 30.6openings a year. A new kid on theblock is Macaroni
pounds.Grill (owned by Brinker International of San Antonio,
Will we ever get our fill of fettuccine withowner of the
pesto,ricotta-stuffed ravioli, linguine in clam sauce orChili's restaurant chain), which has 27 outlets nationally.
just plain spaghetti and meatballs? Isthere a saturation``We opened June 2, and we were having two-hour
point, when we finally say basta (enough already)?waits right away,'' said David
Not anytime soon, according to the folks who trackHyre, general manager of the Wheaton, Ill., restaurant,
America's eating habits and alsowhich offers a variety of pastasand sauces for help
(not surprisingly) those who market Italian foods. Avisit ``We did research before we came here, but
study last year by the NPD Groupbusiness is better than we everanticipated.''
Inc., a Chicago research firm, shows that pasta ranksOne reason the love affair with pasta should continue
second among the top five growthfoods in the lastis its vast variety--spaghettiand meatballs will forever
five years. The study tracked eating habits of 2,000be dear in American hearts, but pasta lovers today
households over fiveyears, and compared 65 foodshave anever-widening choice.
and beverages to determine which have grownMacaroni and cheese becomes penne con cinque
fastest inconsumption. Soft drinks led the list, followedformaggi (tube pasta with fivecheeses).
by pasta, chips, turkey sandwiches andready-to-eatSpaghetti with red sauce can be tagliatelle al ragu
cereals.(ribbon pasta with meat sauce).
Consumers cited two main reasons for their``It's a food that people are familiar with, but at the
enchantment with noodles: Pasta is easyto fix and it'ssame time, customers arebecoming so aware of the
healthful. Digging into a bowl of complex carbohydratesdifferent kinds of pastas, of all the different shapes
is good for thebody (unless, of course, those noodlesand theway pastas can be prepared,'' says Paul
are covered with such less-than-healthful butdelectableLoDuca, chef/owner of Vinci, and the new
items as cream, prosciutto and/or Gorgonzola).Italianseafood restaurant Mare in Chicago. ``Between
``Not only is it convenient to prepare, but it isboth restaurants, we're serving 18 or 19types of pasta.''
considered quite good for you,'' saidJonathan Fox, executive chef of Maggiano's Little Italy
Harry Balzer, NPD vice president when he presentedin Chicago, refers to some ofthe unusual shapes as
the five-year study last April in``designer pastas.''
New York.``For example, radiators (radiatori, which resemble little
And a Gallup survey last May of more than 1,000heaters), and little Christmastree (shaped) pastas; there
grocery shoppers found that 52percent said theyare a lot of interesting shapes. But pasta is pasta, and
were eating more pasta than in the previous year. Inmoreimportant than shape is how it's prepared.''
that same poll 92percent said pasta was ``convenient'';Cathie Weinberg, media communications manager for
93 percent said it was good for them.the Olive Garden chain, alsoreports a large increase in
``I love it, I try to eat it at least three times a week,''pasta varieties and toppings in the last decade.
says Sharon Stilwell, managerconsultant for Relcon Inc.``We've seen tremendous changes. We're adding
in Oak Brook, Ill. ``It's a food that instantly rejuvenatesingredients we didn't offer before,like capers, chopped
me.olives, sliced peppers. There's so much of a variety
When I'm at home, I fix it simply, with just a little olive oilthat I don't seethe market becoming saturated for a
and Parmesan cheese.long time. There's room for lots of restaurants.''
Maybe I'll add chicken if I have leftovers. When I eatMacaroni Grill pushes the envelope when it comes to
out, I'll be more extravagantalthough I try to stay awayoffering new and differentpasta dishes. One of its
from heavier sauces.''biggest sellers, according to manager Hyre, is fried
Italian restaurants continue to proliferate. It's the No. 1pasta; he callsit ``an Italian nacho.''
ethnic category in the UnitedValue is another attraction. Ninety six percent of the
States, according to the National Restaurantshoppers surveyed in last year's
Association. Excluding pizza places, ItalianrestaurantsGallup poll said they liked the cost. When it comes to
increased 135 percent between 1985 and 1993, fromeating out, a bowl of pasta iscertainly cheaper than a
4,438 to 10,435, according to the Restaurant Consultingsteak or most French food. And portions often are
Group in Evanston, Ill. This compares to an increase ofstaggeringlylarge.
only 12 percent for all restaurants during the same time