How to Make People Eat Your Words

Words have the power to whet appetites andDeborah Grossman for her article in Flavor & The
motivate people. They might even be the determiningMenu magazine, Wansink said: "When faced with food
factor in whether a restaurant succeeds or fails. Justchoices, what we taste is influenced by what we read.
ask Dr. Brian Wansink, who has researched theWhat is more appealing, calf thymus or sweetbreads?
psychology of food for years at the University of IllinoisFish eggs or caviar?"
and Cornell University's Food and Brand Lab. He foundGrossman also interviewed Jeff Tenner, executive
restaurants that named dishes using geographic,director of culinary operations at Legal Sea Foods, the
sensory or nostalgic labels (e.g. "traditional Cajun redfabulously successful Boston-based restaurant chain.
beans with rice," "satin chocolate pudding," "grandma'sTenner said the use of commonly understood words
zucchini cookies"), saw sales rise 27 percenton the menu made items more accessible to diners.
compared to the same menu items with plain namesFor example, when "roasted ancho chile chicken"
("red beans and rice," "chocolate pudding" and "zucchiniundersold at Legal Sea Foods, Tenner changed the
cookies").name to "apricot-glazed chicken." The result was a
But when "succulent Italian seafood fillet" wasdramatic rise in sales of that food item. Tenner found
truncated to just "seafood fillet" on a universitythat diners assumed that "ancho" meant spicy-hot
cafeteria menu and offered at the same price, salesrather than smoky-mild. It's yet another example of the
dropped. Use the right adjectives and modifiers andpower of language. Choose the right words and you
menu items become mouthwatering. Serve upcan activate the human senses and motivate buying
milquetoast terminology and salivary glands dry up.decisions.
When interviewed by food and wine journalist