Sutherland - The Coldest Place in South Africa

Sutherland, a little one-horse town in the Great Karoosize and made our viewing fascinating. The buildings
was my next weekend escape. It is known toroof folded back leaving us enclosed within 4 walls
experience the coldest temperatures in South Africaand therefore encumbered by less wind, which made
due to its high altitude (1550m ASL) and its open clearthe cold a little more bearable. By 20h30 we were
skies and in winter one can experience -20 degreesdying to get out of the cold and into a warm fire lit
Celsius and lots of snow and ice. It is also known asbuilding with some hot food in our tummies. We
the "Gateway to the Universe" and is the home to thereturned to Sutherland to one of only 3 restaurants for
largest single optical telescope in the southerndinner. The food was nothing to rave about. We then
hemisphere, with a hexagonal mirror stretching 11returned to our little cottage and after a quick nightcap
metres across. SALT (Southern African Largeof old brown cherry, we climbed into our cosy warm
Telescope) is where astronomers from all over thebeds.
world come to study our universe. Gathering moreBesides the observatory, Sutherland offers some
than 25 times as much light as any existing Africanbeautiful scenic drives. After breakfast, we packed a
telescope, SALT can detect objects as faint as atasty lunch basket and departed on a scenic circular
candle flame on the moon.140km drive. The colourful spring flowers had us
A quick 350km on good tar road from Cape Townstopping every couple of kilometres to take
had me arriving in Sutherland at about 17h00 on Friday.photographs of their incredible display. We travelled to
A truly beautiful drive through the Karoo with hugethe edge of the escarpment where the Roggeveld
open plains covered with low lying scrub vegetationMountains suddenly gave way to the Karoo valley
decorated with breathtakingly beautiful patches of1000m below and the Ouberg pass started its
spring flowers of oranges, purples, whites and yellows.treacherous descent down the steep slope. The
Rolling hills and mountains bared fascinating folded rockviewpoint was breathtaking!
formations.We continued our drive north towards Calvinia
I met my folks at our self-catering guesthouse,following a good gravel road through sheep farmlands,
Rooikloof, where we would spend the weekendrolling hills, shrubland and more beautiful flowers. Being
together, a lovely 3 star guesthouse on a sheep farmavid birders my folks and I relished over the number of
just 2 km outside Sutherland. It was clean, very homelybirds species we saw such as Black Eagles, Lesser
and had everything we needed including electricKestrels, Rock Kestrels, Fish Eagles, Black Breasted
blankets for the very cold nights!Snake Eagle, Pale Chanting Goshawks, Black Harrier,
Our main reason for visiting Sutherland was to viewBlack Stilts, South African Shelduck and many more.
SALT (and the other smaller observatories, 7We are still old school on the names of these birds. A
altogether) and to enjoy a tour of our universe with alot of them have now had their names changed and I
professional astronomer. SALT is situated up on a hillwould not be able to give you the new ones!
about 18km from Sutherland at about 1798m aboveAlong this route there are 2 farms of interest to
sea level. A guided tour of the observatory can bevisitors, one is Koornlandskloof, a commercial tulip farm
taken Monday to Friday at 10h30 and 14h30 and onand the other Fransplaas sheep farm, a dairy farm
Saturday at 11h30 and 14h30 and one must prebook.producing sheeps milk cheese, the only one in South
During the day the observatory is obviously not in useAfrica. Neither of them were open on the Sunday
and can be visited but at night no visitors are allowed,when we passed through so unfortunately I cannot
as international astronomers are hard at workcomment on them. The scenic drive was well worth it
gathering scientific information about our universe.though.
There is a visitor's centre about 1 km away where oneOne should remember when visiting Sutherland that
should meet to do the tour. The centre depicts somenone of the shops, restaurants or accommodation
fascinating history of Astronomy, some recent findings,establishment take credit cards and there are no cash
photographs and illustrations of our universe - the kindwithdrawal machines in town. Most of them do except
of things that are being learnt by our Astronomers incheques as there is a Standard Bank in town but one
today's age with telescopes as advanced as SALT.should remember to take cash.
At 14h30 on Saturday we toured the observatoriesOn our return home we stopped at the historic little
with one of the astronomers (duration 2 hours). Hevillage of Matjiesfontein just 110km from Sutherland, for
explained what the different observatories were useda quick pub lunch in their old English pub, The Lairds
for and what information could be gathered with eachArms. Matjiesfontein is a national monument and takes
telescope and how. In the evening at 19h00 we returnone back to 1889 when it was first declared a village.
to the visitors centre where we would experience ourThe main road, the only road, is all of 300m long and is
guided tour of the universe. Having been pre-warnedlooked on by a little coffee shop, a post office, The
of the extreme temperature we would experience upLairds Arms pub, the 3 star Lord Milner Hotel and of
at the observatory at night, we dressed up in our bestcourse the train station. There are also four museums
winter woollies, padded thick with winter jackets,in town, which depict its history and are quite interesting
beanies and scarves. As we stepped out of our carto visit. The Blue Train, Rovos Rail and the Shosholoza
we where it by this icy wind chill of approx -4 degreesMeyl stop here for about an hour for guests to enjoy
Celsius! Apparently the wind is continuous throughouta little tour of the village with a "born and bred
the year up on the hill creating a wind chill, whichMatjiesfonteiner" by the name of John. John is
always dropped the air temperature radically. AnMatjiesfonteins entertainer. Dressed in black waistcoat
astronomer met with us and walked us to a buildingand bowler hat, his jovial ways and Charlie Chapman
where the visitors' telescopes were housed.walk keeps everyone chuckling as he leads them
Unfortunately one doesn't get to see SALT at work,through the village telling his stories before returning
but these smaller telescopes are still considerable inthem to the train.