| Overhead warmers are fairly simple devices. They | | | | the power! For either element (cal-rod or quartz), first |
| are typically used to keep food that is ready to be | | | | remove at least one wire connection or remove the |
| served warm before it goes out on the server's tray. | | | | element if it is a socket type. If you have a Multi-Tester |
| Overhead warmers have three main parts: | | | | set your tester in the continuity position and touch the |
| 1. Element | | | | leads to the element. If there is no digital read out on |
| 2. On/off switch | | | | the display the element is no good. If you're using a |
| 3. Infinite Control | | | | lighted tester and the light does not light up, then the |
| Read on below for instructions on how to test and | | | | element is not good. In either case, the element needs |
| replace these three parts. Warmers come in different | | | | to be replaced. The element is still good if you get a |
| voltages such as 120V, 208V, and 240V, and they are | | | | digital read out or the lights does light up. |
| made in different lengths. Always have the correct | | | | On/Off Switch |
| voltage on the unit! If you don't, severe damage to the | | | | To test the on/off switch, disconnect at least one wire |
| unit can result. There are two types of elements in | | | | from the switch and perform a continuity test with the |
| most overhead warmers. | | | | switch in the on position. If you do not get a reading, |
| 1. Cal-rod (metal) type | | | | then you need to replace the on/off switch. |
| 2. Quartz glass type. | | | | Infinite Control |
| These elements vary in wattage and length. When | | | | To test the infinite control, there are multiple wire |
| replacing an element, it is helpful to provide the | | | | connections on the back of the control. These wire |
| following information to ensure you get the correct | | | | connections are marked as follows: L1 and L2 are the |
| element. | | | | power wires coming in the warmer. H1 and H2 are the |
| 1. Overall length of the warmer | | | | connections for the element wires. On units with a pilot |
| 2. Model Number | | | | light there may be a HP connection or a P connection, |
| 3. Serial number | | | | P meaning pilot light connection. |
| 4. Voltage | | | | Disconnect at least one wire from any of the H |
| This information can be found on the name tag that is | | | | connections and perform a continuity test across the |
| attached to the warmer. | | | | H prongs with the control in the on position. If you did |
| There are two ways to determine if an element is | | | | not get a reading or light it is time to replace the infinite |
| bad: | | | | control. On an infinite control make sure to determine if |
| 1. Visual Inspection. On the Cal-rod element, inspect the | | | | it is a screw mount or nut mount before purchasing a |
| outside for burn marks. On the quartz element, inspect | | | | replacement. Screw mount controls screw into the |
| the filament or wire coil inside the glass tube. If it is | | | | overhead warming unit; nut mount controls bolt onto |
| separated in any way, it is burnt out. | | | | the unit. |
| 2. Continuity Testing. A continuity tester can determine | | | | Good testing and repair! |
| if an element is defective. Remember to disconnect | | | | |